DEVON: The Ivy, Exeter
VIDEOS
By Tim Saunders
The best part of Exeter has to be the cathedral quarter with its magnificent architecture and pleasant green. The cathedral is a striking structure and over the road is The Ivy Exeter. This grand restaurant is in a former bank, so despite the hot temperatures outside, inside it is cool. What a luxury this is. We are met with high ceilings, extravagant décor and plenty of greenery and plants. But we’re here for lunch rather than horticultural matters. The welcoming staff instantly make us feel at home and show us to our circular table with a semi-circular settee at the back. The colours of the furnishings pleasingly match the wallpaper. Now that we’re seated we can appreciate the sizeable glass topped bar area, where it’s possible to take a crafty peak at customers and staff. The curves of the wood and tiles on the floor provide us with inspiration. There’s great richness here, the waiting staff are dressed in smart uniforms, green waistcoats and white blouses, suits for the men. This is a wonderful unhurried occasion. Sadly, I’m driving, so alcohol is off limits but what about a thirst- quenching smoothie? Why not? We all try a variety from berries to tropical, they are all really refreshing. Caroline can indulge in a Pinot Grigio. The sparkling water is a good palette cleanser and the loaf of salt crusted sourdough is very tasty.
“Why can’t you make this Dad?” questions Henry.
“Because it takes too long, son, so enjoy it.”
And he does. It accompanies our starters very nicely. I choose crispy duck with cashew nuts and a very particular sauce. Mmmm. The girls have salads and Caroline has a pea soup. Henry, oh Henry still struggles with a selection of food on one plate so politely requests whether he can have some watermelon. No problem and he’s happy. Thank goodness. “Can I have a Coke, too?” No problem.
Five contented diners. Portions are sensibly sized. I do enjoy poring over the luxurious menu to reach a decision about the main course. Should I go for fish and chips? I’m sure it’ll be tasty but I could have that anywhere. I always like to try and have something unusual that is hard to find elsewhere. So how about a fish curry? Yes. The signature dish for The Ivy Exeter, it is a monkfish and prawn keralan curry, which is very particular. I don’t feel I could produce this myself, it’s very tasty and in common with all the dishes here, beautifully presented. Awkward customer Henry is tackled with aplomb by our helpful understanding waitress. “I will ask chef if you can have a bacon butty, sir,” she smiles at Henry. Returning, she says it’s fine and it will be in a bun with chips. Pan seared salmon supreme neatly presented on a leaf is Caroline’s choice and very tasty it is too, nicely accompanied by the Pinot Grigio, I am told. Harriett plumps for the fish and chips which do look lovely. Tartare sauce and mushy peas and she’s very happy. Heidi’s linguine and tomato sauce is a simple dish but she really enjoys it. Starting to feel a little full now but you can’t visit The Ivy without trying a dessert or a hot chocolate according to our waitress. Who am I to argue? Ok, I give in, I’ll go for The Ivy Chocolate Bombe then. It’s a joy to behold. It arrives as a fairly sizeable chocolate ball surrounded by vanilla ice cream. But when the waitress pours hot caramel sauce over it, it begins to melt. It’s quite a sight and when you scoop some of that honeycomb, oh it’s satisfying. The dark chocolate hot chocolate really enhances this chocaholic’s delight! Henry reckons his milk chocolate hot chocolate is nicer though. Heidi’s crème brulee “is the best I have had,” says our little connoisseur and Caroline agrees, taking a little spoonful. “The crunch is just right,” she says. It arrives with a flame which holds the attention and brings a touch of theatre to proceedings. Summer sundaes are just the ticket for Henry and Harriett. Caroline’s coffee – made from beans behind the bar – and presented with a little heart of milk finishes off this memorable meal for her. It’s a great privilege to experience this fine dining and a memory that will stay with us forever. Even the toilets smell of roses and the marble topped sinks are a pleasure to use.
