travel writer

By Tim Saunders

In June 2020 Bristol hit the headlines when the statue of slave trader Edward Colston was toppled by protesters into the harbour. It is now on permanent display at the M Shed museum beside the harbour, as part of an exhibition about the history of protest in the city. We are reminded of this and informed of Mr Colston’s contribution to Bristol during an enlightening 45 minute tour down the harbour on a Bristol Packet boat trip where the children are allowed to steer. A significant portion of Bristol’s historical wealth and development during the 17th and 18th centuries was built on its involvement in the transatlantic slave trade and the industries that supported it such as sugar. Bristol was a major slave port with half a million slaves transported on Bristol ships. We learn about the seventy-acre floating harbour and how it cut off the tide, making it more stable for boats and acting as a flood defence for the city. We’re introduced to Greg the goose and a crocodile hiding among the harbour walls. You can’t visit here without mention of the great civil engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel (1806 to 1859) who designed Clifton Suspension Bridge, just down the road but also SS Great Britain, which transformed transatlantic travel. This, the world’s largest passenger boat from 1845 to 1853 reduced the sailing time from England to America from six weeks to 14 days, which was phenomenal at the time. Brunel only lived 53 years and achieved so much, it’s awe inspiring. We briefly go on board this lovingly restored ship where it’s possible to have a Sunday roast onboard sitting where wealthy Victorians would have done.

World famous street artist Banksy painted a picture on the side of one of the boats along the harbour and as he became more famous the boat owner found it impossible to insure it so removed the panel featuring the work, replacing it with a blank one. The Banksy panel can be seen at M Shed alongside other interesting items including Wallace and Gromit Plasticine models from Aardman, the award winning Bristol animation studio.

The city centre is full of interest and we think we even spot a Banksy on the side of a building. Here we people watch, admire the architecture and even watch a reggae band. At Bristol Museum and Art Gallery we see paintings by Turner, Constable, Pissarro and Renoir. There are dinosaurs, Delftware and sculptures. Henry (9) discovers a film featuring a man walking up a ladder and then falling to the floor, which he finds hilarious and sits there laughing like a drain.

The Upside Down House, where there are some great photo opportunities, stands near to WetheCurious in Millennium Square which is chock-a-block with interactive science inspiration; a model of our vocal chords and how they work… through to a hot air balloon, parachutes and a section about invisibility where glass and light results in my hands vanishing… We watch an interesting 3D interactive film about space, too where we consider what aliens look like.

Three miles of countryside can be enjoyed on the Avon Valley Railway from Bitton station where during our visit a magician hops aboard and performs a mesmerising ball trick. “In the distance you can see the old Fry’s chocolate factory,” one of the guards informs me, adding that the railway is run by a charity that has looked after and restored this railway since the 1970s. His dream is for the line to go all the way to Bath but it would cost millions to make a reality. During our visit Pitcombe Rock Falconry allows visitors to handle their birds of prey. The children each get to have Maple a young owl and Winston a 23 year old barn owl on their hands using a special glove. These are magnificent creatures.

A little over an hour away is Longleat Safari Park. Arriving just before opening time ensures we’re at the front of the queue and gives me chance to talk to a member of staff. “Most visitors start with the drive through safari but with young children I recommend going on the boat safari first, then visit the house, look at the grounds and do the drive through safari later on when the little ones are tired.” I’m very glad I have that conversation because it works a treat. On the way to the boat safari we see an adorable porcupine with his claws round a carrot, enjoying his breakfast. On the boat safari we see plenty of sea lions who really can make unsettling barking sounds as they demand feeding and there are plenty of fish for them. “Hippopotamuses are the most dangerous animals, being able to run 25mph,” we are told. They kill 500 people a year in Africa and kill kayakers for a pastime.

There’s a little train where we see more wildlife. Inside the Elizabethan Grade 1 listed mansion we find ourselves captivated by the sheer number of books; apparently there are seven libraries holding a total of 44,000. Back at the park there’s a bat house and they fly above you. We see a crocodile that is so still we’re not sure whether it’s alive until we spot him breathing. As we drive through the safari park a male lion nonchalantly ambles up to our vehicle. “Don’t look him in the eyes,” panics my wife Caroline. He just walks past, along the line of cars behind us. It would appear to be mating season for the lions; one exhausted male falls off his female, flat onto his back. It’s quite comical. There are two humped camels that walk in a very particular way. Later on we see graceful giraffes munching away.

We stay at Mollie’s Motel Bristol, inspired by America’s roadside diners, which gives this brand huge character. When great staff are added to the mix there’s a proposition that leaves any competitors in the tail lights. It’s interesting to consider that before Mollie’s existed, the traveller really only had, some might say, stale, old hat, characterless roadside hotels from which to choose. Mollie’s has considerably shaken things up. We have two rooms; the children have bunkbeds and our rooms are interconnecting. We have a sumptuous king size bed. This interconnecting idea can be a blessing but it can also be a bit of a headache when there’s a Henry involved because he does enjoy closing the door completely which means he can only open it with a keycard, which he doesn’t have so there’s a knock on the main door… Anyway, he enjoys himself. Clearly a lot of thought has gone into design here and for that we are grateful. There’s calming textured wood on the walls throughout as well as sleek streamlined wooden floors. Appealing wall colours and 1960s inspired furniture design does not go unmissed. It’s impressive and warm, too. We’re not just talking about giving that weary traveller a bed to rest their heads but giving them a special experience, some inspiration and great memories. For this, Mollie’s stands out from the competition. The beds are really comfortable and the black out curtains keep out the light, ensuring a good night’s sleep. It’s quiet too, despite its busy roadside location. There are no kettles in the rooms, instead a boiling hot, ice cold tap in the corridor. The shower rooms, with their sliding doors and integrated floor to ceiling mirrors, are luxurious. We may well incorporate this idea in our ongoing home renovations. The motel is in a separate building to the diner where we have breakfast and dinner. It’s so refreshing to be asked, “Did you sleep well?” as we are guided to our table for breakfast. These little things make the traveller feel appreciated and that someone does care. The staff are really friendly and helpful. Mollie’s unhurried breakfasts (served from 630am to noon) are fabulous memorable events. House granola with coconut yoghurt and berries is followed by scrambled egg and smoked salmon on sourdough toast accompanied with a berry smoothie and hot chocolate for my wife and I. The children prefer a more American theme and opt for banana bread and berries followed by waffles with banana and maple syrup. It certainly sets you up for the day. It’s good to see that even Henry is confident enough to give the waiter his order.

The diner is full of character, really pleasing period fixtures and fittings making us feel like we’re on the set of Happy Days. The only thing missing is the jukebox although music is playing in the background.

We return for dinner and enjoy nacho starters and authentic American burgers and milkshakes. There are Mollie’s in Oxford and a new one in Manchester and they even have their own Mollie’s Mojito, which is very tasty.

From our table we spy the bus stop where we need to board the First Bus to the city centre. These buses run regularly throughout the day until midnight, making it reliable transport. Leaving our car in Mollie’s car park allows us not to worry about parking in the city. On our way to the bus stop we spot an iPhone on the pavement complete with driving licences. We pick it up planning to take it to a police station. A few minutes later as we approach the bus stop we spy a construction worker on the other side of the dual carriageway running and looking as if he might have lost something. We yell over and sure enough he is the owner, we know from his driving licence. “You need to be more careful,” I advise, knowing full well that this will happen again.

Putting our hands out catches the bus driver’s attention and he stops for us to get on. It’s a great experience for the children. We sit on the top deck and see all the sights from up above. Depending on the number of the bus depends on the speed of the journey as it stops more or less frequently. One evening journey is so popular we must stand for half of it. Pieminister has been making pies in Bristol since 2003 and has nine restaurants around the UK in Birmingham, Leeds, Sheffield, Oxford, Stoke on Trent and two in Manchester. We dine in their Broad Quay branch (they have another in St Nick’s Market). There’s a lively welcoming atmosphere with lots of families and friends meeting up and really enjoying the food. During our visit it’s so popular people are being turned away. Often niche businesses, if they are run properly, can be successful and focusing on one thing and doing it well is clearly a sensible move. My family and I love pies. The name, Pieminister is very memorable – a nice cheeky play on words and this follows through to the decor with little sayings on the walls such as Good Pie-brations… The menu follows a similar vein; Moo pie, Moolin Rouge. Because one of our daughters is called Heidi, Caroline feels obliged to try the Heidi pie of goat’s cheese, sweet potato, red onion and spinach with sesame seeds and she is not disappointed. Her Shrub juice of cinnamon, ginger beer and lime is very tasty, she says. I have to go for the Moolin Rouge: steak in red wine with fries and tenderstem. Somerset Orchard cider is a nice accompaniment and a hot choc pud is an enjoyable dessert. Heidi and Harriett both have lemonades, Moo pies and ice cream for pudding. Henry is not brave enough to try a pie yet so sticks to sausages and peas with ice cream for dessert and chocolate milkshake. The mixologist jigs away to his music and enjoys his work, which is great to see.

There is so much to do in Bristol, we have only touched the surface.

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