travel writer

By Tim Saunders

Getting away from it all is what a holiday is all about. A chance to unwind, forget about responsibilities and recharge. All good for the soul. We actually manage this during our trip to Guernsey.

All of a sudden the wind picks up so we’re a bit concerned that glamping might not be the best idea but Jane and Danny at Camp de Rêves reassure us that since establishing the business in 2019 the storm proof luxury tents have experienced winds of up to 90mph without a problem. Our self-catering coastal accommodation is much more hotel than safari tent thanks to high quality fixtures and fittings and its own shower room. We do enjoy the clever use of space and Heidi and Henry especially really appreciate the double captain’s bed with play room beneath. More ingenious ideas can be found in the kitchen. It’s got us thinking about how we can best utilise our own space at home. There’s a sliding door on the shower room, wooden floors and a nice rustic finish all round. An electric hob allows us to cook our dinner. Comfy beds ensure a good night’s sleep, even when it’s blowing a hoolie and the canvas is rattling about. In fact the longer we stay, the better we sleep. “This experience has made me stronger and forced me to stop worrying,” admits Caroline, who overcomes her anxieties to enjoy some good night’s rest. “I really feel like we’re getting close to nature without the hardship of traditional camping,” she adds. Our own veranda allows us to savour spectacular sea views. France is just over the water, too.

Much entertainment can be had at Camp de Rêves, which recently won a King’s Award for Enterprise in recognition for its sustainable practices. Henry particularly, makes regular visits to the games room where there’s ping pong and table football as well as basket ball and badminton. An outdoor play area for the children is complimented by a pizza kitchen and there are walks too, with the beach not being too far away. The children make friends with Chilli, the friendly Labrador cross.

With a view to keeping mainly Henry entertained, we visit Golf 19 in Rohais de Haut – the French road names help to give a foreign feel to this Crown dependency - where we while away some three hours tackling a particularly challenging pirate crazy golf course thanks to the water. However, despite this there are occasions where Henry and I manage a hole in one but generally all our efforts fall way short of this.

From St Peter Port it’s easy to catch a ferry to the unspoilt car-free paradise of Herm. It only takes about 20 minutes and when we approach we see some houses near the coast and think about how difficult it must have been to get supplies over to build them. When we arrive and alight onto the harbour we’re excited about the prospect of exploring this tiny island, which seems to have a hotel and a campsite. There’s a church, too and we make our way to a beautiful sandy beach where there are very very few people. We smile as we walk past a sign just beforehand which declares, “No playing of radios…” Now why can’t that be the case back at home on our beaches and in our parks? Guernsey has standards that have been lost on the mainland. The children run in and out of the waves while I paddle and Caroline has a rest. As I stand without a care in the world I look out to sea and spy some oystercatchers, a seal and even a bull-nosed dolphin. What a wonderful place. Henry decides to build a fort – rather than a sandcastle - of which there are quite a few dotted around the island – that were built to protect it from Napolean. The Germans favoured these too when they invaded in WWII. Walking always seems to bore Henry after a while which is why we’ve brought his scooter and on some paths it is possible to use it despite the sand. There are a few excellent downhill slopes where he’s able to get up some good speed but you do have to be careful. Fortunately he is. There are some steep drops. As we wait for the return ferry to moor it becomes clear that the sea is very rough and it takes the captain some time to get to a position where we can all board. “Be quick,” we are told. Those who love rollercoasters would enjoy this crossing. Henry decides that following the roll of the waves with his body is the best way of tackling the journey. We all get back to St Peter Port feeling extremely grateful to be alive. The captain doesn’t seem to bat an eyelid.

St Peter Port is a shopper’s paradise with lots of variety and a thriving centre, which makes a pleasant change these days. In contrast to many places we visit we see no beggars and shoplifting is not a problem. Guernsey, home to multi-million pound homes, luxury vehicles etc. etc., is an affluent tax haven and this is no doubt the reason for its very pleasant atmosphere.

Narrow country lanes are home to many well maintained historic stone constructed residences and speed limits rarely exceed 35mph, which is just as well.

When a little indulgence is required, a relaxed and unhurried three course meal in the brasserie at The Old Government House Hotel is the answer. Inside the island’s only five star hotel, diners can be assured of a special experience. We savour the ostentatious surroundings, Harriett (14) immediately appreciates the luxury green carpet and curtains, the view onto the terrace with its colourful flowers and water fountain, the Guernsey flag blowing in that wind. A pianist plays jazz behind us. This is very nice and every single diner is clearly enjoying their time here. There’s civilised conversation and just the right amount of attention from the waiters and waitresses. “What well behaved children you have,” one informs me, which is always pleasing to hear when we’re out in public. Henry is content with his French fries, pizza, Pepsi and sundae and it’s him that has to be happy because then we can all relax. A nice touch is the children’s menu designed in the form of a ration booklet with some information about what children had to endure during the occupation and it helps to make ours realise how very lucky they are. It also helps to ensure that all food is eaten. As I savour my ice cold Guinness, fresh warm homemade brioche, made this very morning, is delivered to our table, with Guernsey butter. Delicious. Afterwards an appetizer follows; a single slice of cucumber with a dash of homemade hummus. An interesting and tasty combination. Henry has a little nibble but the hummus is one step too far. So I have it. Menus can blind me because there’s so much choice. That’s the case with the wine menu and so I ask the waitress what she recommends to accompany my duck confit, spinach and strawberry and Caroline’s cod, pesto and new potatoes. I’m glad I do. “The hotel owners have their own vineyard in South Africa and produce a lovely red wine. I’d have that,” she helpfully suggests. So we do and we agree with her. The presentation is fantastic and the portions are just right ensuring that we can enjoy all three courses. Each portion is artistically presented in the centre of a large plate, leaving white space like that around a picture and its frame. It is a work of art. This is a standard of food that we could not hope to cook for ourselves because it is another level altogether and that is really enjoyable to experience. The duck falls away from the bone and the accompanying new potatoes and seasonal vegetables further enhance the dish. I finish with Eton Mess, which could do with a little more meringue in my opinion but the presentation is second to none.

We travel on the afternoon crossing with Condor Ferries on its Voyager catamaran from Poole to St Peter Port. Boarding the ferry is easy enough and to our delight there are a number of French speaking staff, who incidentally are all very smartly dressed in their Brittany Ferries uniforms. So we try our best to converse in French, which is particularly good for Harriett who is learning the lingo and also makes you feel like we’re travelling abroad even though we’re not. It takes about three hours to get to Guernsey. We sit in the comfortable dining area people watching and chatting. The children while away the time playing cards when they’re not eating their paninis and drinking. My tuna mayonnaise salad is very welcome as is the sparkling mineral water. Rough seas feature in our return journey but despite this the captain makes good time. One crew member says that it’s smoother than was expected. We’re able to enjoy our continental breakfasts without issue and are able to relive the highlights of our break while contemplating our next trips.